At the heart of LaGrange is Lafayette Square, named after Gilbert du Mortier, known as the Marquis de Lafayette. He compared the landscape around LaGrange to that of his wife’s ancestral home in France. (Ashley Blencoe/Visit LaGrange/TNS)
Mary Ann Anderson | Tribune News Service
At Lafayette Square, the center of LaGrange, it is still the 1890s. As I walk the entire red-brick path around the square and admire the huge fountain that spits thousands of gallons of crystal-clear water into the bluest sky, countless crepe myrtles and roses bathe my walk in gorgeous shades of pink, red and purple.
The square, located in the heart of LaGrange’s historic district, pays homage to Gilbert du Mortier, better known as the Marquis de Lafayette, the French nobleman and diplomat who fought in the American Revolutionary War. A small town of about 32,000 at its core and nestled in the rolling hills of Georgia’s Piedmont about an hour’s drive southwest of Atlanta, LaGrange is named for the Château de la Grange-Bléneau, the ancestral home of Lafayette’s wife, Marie Adrienne de Noailles. When Lafayette visited Georgia, he noticed that the landscape resembled the area surrounding the castle. Call it the French connection.
Lafayette Square enhances LaGrange’s small-town architecture with boutiques, restaurants and shops overlooking the park on all sides. The historic buildings, built from 1828 to 1957, make Lafayette Square undoubtedly one of the most picturesque and charming squares in Georgia. LaGrange’s business district is so beautiful and nostalgic that it earned a coveted listing on the National Register of Historic Places. At nightfall, the square is ablaze with thousands of twinkling lights that cast an ethereal glow over downtown and provide a calming place to relax after a day of eating and exploring all that LaGrange has to offer.
With its Old World past perfectly balanced with contemporary charm, LaGrange has a lot to offer in terms of history, food and pre- and post-Civil War architecture.
What to do
Self-guided and guided tours are a must. Maps are available at the LaGrange Visitor Center, just steps from the square. LaGrange is full of attractions, including for shopaholics, the Marketplace at Lafayette Square, a two-story department store filled with unique artwork, antiques and other local treasures. There’s also the Legacy Museum on Main, which tells the whispered secrets and storied past of West Georgia, from the Creek Indians to the world’s oldest bale of cotton to a replica covered bridge.
On the outskirts of LaGrange lies Hills & Dales Estate, the historic country home of textile magnate Fuller E. Callaway and his wife, Ida Cason Callaway. While the centerpiece is undoubtedly the 30-room, 15,000-square-foot Georgian-style mansion with impressive fireplaces and terracotta roof tiles, the striking remnant of early 20th-century architecture flows in perfect symmetry into a series of manicured gardens enhanced by spectacular fountains and statues.
The gardens date back to the 1830s and in all four seasons, especially spring, fragrant flowers bloom in clouds of brilliant azaleas, tulips, magnolias, hydrangeas, tea bushes and camellias. The property is named for its rolling hills and shady valleys and the enchanting gardens have withstood the tests of time in Georgia style with extreme heat and humidity, drought, frost and snowfall.
Leave the early 20th century of Hills & Dales behind and travel further back in time to the Biblical History Center, a place that helps put the Holy Bible in context. A visit to the center is like traveling 2,000 years back to the Middle East, with its archaeological recreation garden reminiscent of ancient sites in Jordan and Israel and featuring replicas of tombs, millstones and goat-hair tents from the Old and New Testaments. The Israel Antiquities Authority has loaned the center more than 250 pieces, including impressive examples of pottery, oil lamps and agricultural equipment. Although reservations are required, you can also enjoy a four-course biblical meal with soup, salad, main course and dessert or a shepherd’s bread-making experience.
Feel like getting out into the great outdoors? Clean, sparkling West Point Lake, with its 520 miles of shoreline, offers the usual water fun like boating, fishing and camping. Feel like old-fashioned storytelling? Then head to LaGrange the first weekend in March for the Azalea Storytelling Festival, a lively, laughter-filled event that puts the time-honored tradition front and center. Feel like shooting hooch? Wait. What? That simply means renting or bringing a kayak and paddling down the Chattahoochee River—locally called Hooch—to experience some of the most beautiful natural scenery in all of Georgia.
Where to eat
Georgia has an unparalleled obsession with food, and LaGrange is one of those places that exceeds expectations for such a small town, teeming with festive hotspots to enjoy the Peach State’s best cuisine.
Enjoy the savory secrets of Tutto Pepe, a fine Italian restaurant where pasta is made from scratch and then turned into dishes like rigatoni al pesto with fried flounder, gnocchi di gamberetti with potatoes and shrimp, or classic dishes like lasagna and spaghetti. Remember this Tutto Pepe treat: I’ve eaten shrimp. I’ve eaten toast. I’ve eaten lots of fried food. But never fried shrimp toast. With its crispy, crunchy flavor, it was love at first bite. Tutto Pepe shares space with Beacon Brewing, in case you’re in the mood for an aperitif or digestif in the form of beer.
Also try Taste of Lemon, a popular eatery that serves traditional Southern dishes in the “meat-and-three” style. For those who don’t know Southern lingo, that’s a meal with meat and three vegetables. Culinary delights include roast beef, baked chicken, or fried pork chops, served with sides ranging from beets to green beans to corn to okra. Desserts vary, but could include strawberry shortcake or peach pie. Don’t forget to ask for a blessing before eating, as Taste of Lemon is located in a historic Methodist church.
We stop for lunch at the Nutwood Winery Restaurant and Wine Bar, the downtown location of the Nutwood Winery Tasting Room and Vineyard Cafe, and sample their buttery Chardonnay and a wonderful Pinot Noir before I opt for shrimp and grits and he for a cheeseburger. Glancing at the dinner menu, I see that the offerings include porterhouse and filet steaks, seared scallops and shrimp linguine.
Living large in LaGrange also means sampling the hot dogs at Charlie Joseph’s, a self-serve downtown diner, or grabbing a tasty sundae or milkshake at the old-fashioned soda counter at Medicine Cabinet Soda Shoppe. We opt for breakfast at Gus’s Grill, a cozy downtown restaurant known for its omelets, biscuits and skillets. Later in the afternoon, we stop by Wild Leap Brewery, in a building that used to be Westbook Tire & Service, to sample craft beer and hand-crafted vodka.
Where to stay
During our visit to LaGrange, we wanted to stay near Lafayette Square and chose the Courtyard by Marriott. It is located right on the square and its red brick facade blends easily into the historic landscape of downtown. The Bistro, the hotel’s restaurant, serves both breakfast and dinner and always seems to be busy. An outdoor fire pit and a small wading pool add to its homey atmosphere.
For a resort-style family stay, Great Wolf Lodge offers themed suites with outdoor names like Grizzly Bear, KidCabin and Wolf Den. But the real highlight is a 9,300-square-foot indoor water park with pools and slides that’s kept at a comfortable 29 degrees year-round. Adventurous kids have fun on a ropes course, mini golf and a climbing wall. There are several restaurants and bistros scattered throughout the resort, offering a wide variety of cuisine from pizza and burgers to steaks and cocktails.
West Point Lake has remote and electric campsites, as well as several RV sites. Highland Pines Resort and Marina, also on the lake, offers cabins, pontoons, fishing boats and kayaks for rent.
The last word
In all my years of wandering around Georgia, I was sure I knew every back road and every town in the state, but somehow I had overlooked LaGrange. While I’m not a fan of cliches, it truly can be called one of Georgia’s hidden gems and is definitely worth seeking out.
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When you go
Contact Visit LaGrange at www.visitlagrange.com. The LaGrange Visitor Center, located at 206 Ridley Ave., just off Lafayette Square, is an ideal first stop for brochures and lodging and dining recommendations. The living room-style decor and knowledgeable, friendly staff are the perfect Southern hospitality welcome to LaGrange.
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