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A pattern has emerged in the way we dress as adults. When it comes to clothing, many of us fall back on styles and silhouettes that defined our wardrobe as a child. As teenagers, we couldn’t wait to ditch smock dresses and pointelle underwear, and yet today, over 20 years later, we’re wearing exactly that. One piece we’re surprisingly coveting right now is the classic Mary Jane shoe. The familiar one-strap style may have been the first shoe we ever wore (anyone remember buying shoes from Clarks in school?), but the appeal endures, with the street style scene returning to them time and time again, wearing them in countless different outfit combinations. They work just as well with knee-length Bermuda shorts as they do with a slip dress.
Mary Janes are now worn in ballerina-like styles with voluminous silhouettes and crisp white cotton socks pulled over the ankle. The understated styles compete with our ubiquitous trainers for an everyday shoe that’s as chic as it is comfortable, as elegant as it is affordable. They feel a little more special and snappy than their flat-soled sisters, while their closed toes are well-suited to the office. At this price point, a cacophony of options abound, whether you opt for Alaïa’s fully studded version, Dear Frances’ woven leather version or John Lewis’ viral pair.
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Mary Janes were once synonymous with Carrie Bradshaw, who rocked Manolo Blahnik’s Campari style in the fourth season of Sex and the City, But it’s the flatter, wearable styles that have become the MVP of a wardrobe in 2024.
Off the set, Sarah Jessica Parker wears the Mary Jane shoes in 2001.
And so Mary Janes have become big business for brands whose styles are must-haves in their catalogs. “Every shoe brand makes a version of a Mary Jane and it takes a lot of thought to make your version really stand out,” says Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo ELLE. “Our Bing silhouette is the basis and inspiration for our Mary Jane styles – they are inherently glamorous and hand-finished with a crystal strap. I love playing with proportions and was inspired by the rebellious Beatnik fashion of the 1950s, which focused on edgy, sophisticated and minimalist silhouettes.”
Jimmy Choo Didi 45
Could Choi choose a favorite Choo Mary Jane? She can! “The Didi 45 is my favorite shoe because it combines three trends in one: kitten heel, Mary Jane and slingback.” I own these shoes too and find them to be a versatile investment; they go just as well with a pleated skirt at the office as with cargo pants on the weekend or a full-skirted dress for an evening event.
The appeal of Mary Janes is simple. They’re subtly feminine and, above all, practical. Even more practical than simple ballet flats, because the signature strap ensures they stay on your foot. But while practicality is paramount, Choi encourages a bolder, more confident approach. “We live in an age where anything is possible, and I think it’s important to use the power of shoes to express yourself,” she advises.
Jimmy Choo Elisa 45 Mary Jane shoes
Russell & Bromley Black Mary Jane Shoes
Alaïa Mary Jane shoes with crystal embellishment
John Lewis – Mary Jane style ballerina flats
Marks & Spencer – Silver Mary Jane Shoes
& Other Stories Mary Jane shoes
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