As you zoom across the water and around the rocky headland in a speedboat, the early start and four-hour flight disappear into the distance as quickly as the quay you just came from. The speedboat journey is the second, shorter leg of the airport transfer, which begins more conventionally on land on four wheels and takes around an hour from Dalaman, the nearest airport.
Why stay here?
The Yazz Collective’s bay is only accessible by boat and is lined with rugged, pine-covered cliffs. The accommodation is thoughtfully situated amidst lush vegetation. Boardwalks lead down to the restaurant, bar, shop, spa – and the Mediterranean Sea.
Cushioned single and double sunbeds line the narrow, fine-pebble beach – half of which is reserved for Yazz Collective guests – and there’s a jetty with a pontoon mooring for yachts. Each sunbed has a wooden table with a bell to summon food and drinks. Overhanging trees and parasols provide welcome shade; average summer temperatures are around -4°C, although it was over 40°C when I visited.
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The accommodation
Each of the 13 suites and three deluxe rooms is decorated in muted neutral tones and natural materials. Our “comfort suite” offered just that: a huge bed, separated from the living area and its soft, deep sofa, inviting relaxation in front of a window with sheer curtains. Floor-to-ceiling windows open to a terrace with Adirondack-style chairs and cushioned sun loungers, covered by an awning and surrounded by lush plants.
Besides the richly cushioned sofa, there’s a chunky wooden table on a coconut rug and a wall-mounted swivel TV. We enjoyed a few minutes of a Turkish soap opera (with alcoholic drinks blurred out, as the country has banned their advertising since 2013).
Thankfully the air conditioning was quiet and efficient, making the room a cool oasis. A lighting guide would be useful – there are reading lamps by the bed, hammered copper pendant lights and subtle wall washers, but it took us 48 hours to figure out how to turn off the light in the fridge next to the minibar, which opens from above!
The bathroom has a sunken double sink with plenty of space for toiletries and a view of the outdoor shower in a small courtyard next to a tree. Of course there is also an indoor shower with heavenly scented shower gel, shampoo and conditioner. The toilet is separate so you can both use the facilities at the same time.
The open wardrobe with two compartments is equipped with shelves and drawers, long clothes rails and an unusually large number of coat hangers. Two bathrobes and slippers with the softest soles ever invite you to relax in comfort.
What to see and do
The water here on the Turquoise Coast is clear, calm and warm. The salty Mediterranean Sea is known for its buoyancy, so you can take it easy when swimming too. Float or float on your back and admire the blue sky without having to worry about approaching boats in the cordoned off beach zone. If you’re feeling a bit more energetic, take a SUP or a transparent-bottomed kayak with you, or, for less effort, let an underwater scooter pull you up and down.
Fancy some fresh water? Then visit the two swimming pools or reserve a private pool.
When the lure of idleness wears off, the Yazz speedboat will take you to Fethiye, with its markets, cobbled old town, marina and port. Although much of the town has been destroyed by earthquakes, above the town you can still see the ancient and enormous rock-cut tomb of Amyntas, carved in 350 BC.
And if you feel like you’re discovering something new without actually moving much, book a sunset cruise on the Yazz speedboat along the rugged coast to a spot where the sun sinks perfectly into a dip in the mountains while you sip sparkling wine and nibble on a plate of fruit and nuts. For a cosmic experience, turn around and watch the moon rise at the same time.
If you need practical help reaching a state of bliss, head to the spa. The massage rooms are simple, curtained open-air wooden spaces and are right on the beach so you can hear the waves lapping below, adding an extra sensory dimension. I treated myself to a Balinese massage from a therapist from Bali. Sometimes intense, her movements were fluid, sometimes super soft, sometimes brisk, but always with the pressure I preferred, and afterwards I floated home with a dreamy smile on my face.
There’s yoga on the beach at 8am every day and an indoor and outdoor gym. In the evenings there are workshops that change every two weeks. We just missed the mask-making, but I was an eager participant in a cocktail class with the head bartender, who showed us how to make two margaritas: one with smoked salt and his signature chilli margarita. The latter, garnished with passion fruit foam and pepper crumbles, is by far the best-selling cocktail here, and the tangy fruit foam complements the spicy heat underneath. And of course, just to test my shaker skills, I ordered them later at the bar to compare.
The Craft Bar, the quieter open-air venue, has a shuffleboard-like game and also shows films. Here we were served by Onar, who remembered how fizzy you wanted your beer to be.
There are two shops on-site: Yazz Boutique featuring fashion and accessories from upscale Turkish designers, a rich hunting ground for high-quality swimwear, and one for everyday essentials such as sunscreen, toothbrushes and snacks.
Food and Drink
There’s only one place to eat here (unless you use room service), but don’t worry: the food is absolutely delicious, a fresh mix of Turkish cuisine and dishes from the wider Mediterranean.
Partly open-air, partly covered and furnished with natural materials, the restaurant has solid rustic wooden tables, softly cushioned benches and at least one large tree. Sitting right on the water, you can watch the boats and then marvel at the mountain ranges merging across the bay as the fairy lights/outdoor lighting come on.
On the evening menu you will find, as expected, fresh seafood such as squid, sea bass, lobster and the catch of the day as well as Turkish specialties such as Subscribea pizza-like base with minced meat and other toppings. There are few vegetarian mains on the menu, but with the help of the staff it is not difficult to eat well, with options such as cheese-filled filo pastry burekcrispy fried zucchini and creamy Čacik (Tzatziki) garnished with fennel and almonds. Everything is perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. Under the guidance of our waiter Burak, we chose a fresh, dry Thracian wine.
For breakfast, we have the best avocado toast I’ve ever eaten, topped with yogurt, rocket and pesto, or eggs of your choice, including Benedict, or pancakes with compote and ice cream.
Try the sumptuous and long Turkish breakfast at least once. Don’t expect to need lunch that day. From a huge round tray, your waiter will unload one plate after another. Breads include croissants, simitor Turkish bagels with sesame crust, with standard Subscribeor white village bread. Top it with guacamole, tahini, honey, jam, cheese, pomegranate molasses… Homemade granola was served with yoghurt, bananas and strawberries. And if you fancy something fresh, there are tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce from the garden, as well as a platter of cherries, apricots, grapes and almonds.
The beauty of such a spread is that you can prepare your best breakfast. Take your time, order more coffee and pick the olives, the dried figs, the grilled hellim (Halloumi)… tear off another piece of the donut pee and decide what you want to immerse it in.
The verdict
There was a small language barrier with some staff, which led to a few misunderstandings, such as when I repeatedly tried to log on to the WiFi with my own passport number when I needed to use my partner’s, but this was quickly and kindly resolved.
For a few days of total relaxation, Yazz is the place to be. The small number of guests on site, no traffic noise (apart from boats) and no roads to navigate contribute to a calm, relaxed atmosphere. This pervasive sense of tranquility invites a little digital detox – although there is WiFi. Meals are taken in peace and quiet, without the hectic comings and goings of people. Decision-making is limited to what to wear, what to eat and drink and whether to go for another swim.
Adrienne Wyper was a guest of Yazz Collectivenear Fethiye, Türkiye, where a comfort suite for two people costs from £530 per night.