If fashion is our second skin, is skin our first fashion?
Throughout all eras of fashion, skin has been concealed, highlighted and revealed as a sign of class, environment and function. But today, something new is happening in the realm of nudity in fashion – skin as a material itself.
From tattoo prints to tactile prosthetics, skin interfaces have emerged alongside the industry’s rise in underwear as outerwear and transparent clothing – an indication of the willingness to express our physical forms. Skin materials are also closely linked to the aesthetics of digital clothing and avatars. Digital skins are sold in the billions in video games, and virtual avatars that don’t require tangible garments are showing us new ways to interpret the definition of clothing. One example is Paris-based designer Rohan Mirza, who recently released a pair of 3D-printed silicone pants with skin tattoos; inspired by video game characters.
Some designers compare the use of skin materials to the collective feeling of being exposed and vulnerable, while others see it as a result of breaking down dress codes. Ukrainian brand TTSWTRS, founded by Anna Osmekhina, creates retinal tattoos to celebrate human physicality as an art form. UK-based brand Natasha Zinko has become synonymous with its muscle suits, which symbolize human strength, confidence and resilience.
While skin materials are used to celebrate the body and satirically provoke societal norms, they can also provoke strong reactions. The skin-clad style conjures a sense of disorientation in the viewer. This feeling is most evident in the beauty space, where artists like Tilda Mace create otherworldly sunburns, scars and body augmentations and Japanese nail artist Yuri Osuka designs skin nails.
In the digital world, skin-inspired fashion is taking new forms using artificial intelligence and 3D rendering. UK-based visual artist Éamonn Freel designs conceptual garments made from skin that become fluid for the body, while China-based artist Youwei Zhu, founder of UV-朱, creates speculative shoes and accessories made from human flesh.
So how do skin interfaces change our perception of fashion materials and what do they say about today’s fashion culture?
Below we speak to Natasha Zinko, Yuri Osuka, Anna Osmekhina and Youwei Zhu to find out their opinions.
Skin-inspired materials and prosthetics are currently enjoying increasing popularity. Why do you think this is?
Anna Osmekhina: People are currently in a very vulnerable state and experiencing significant changes, making them feel almost exposed, as if they were naked. As a result, there is a strong desire to present themselves authentically and fully express who they are. The movement in digital culture and reduced censorship on social media platforms also allows us to delve deeper into human physicality as an art form.
Natasha Zinko: We are all gradually feeling freer, more confident in our bodies, less afraid to push the boundaries of dress codes and embrace our natural naked state. Body-inspired garments have become a way to experiment with social norms. Technically you are covered and clothed, but visually you are naked, following the rules but at the same time drawing attention to what is being hidden.
Youwei Zhu: The skin is our first garment and the barrier that protects the body. Its importance is obvious, but perhaps the fact that we can choose from more materials today leads us to ignore this “natural clothing”. So I wanted to go back to the beginning, explore the plasticity of the skin and rethink the most primitive appearance of life.
Yuri Osuka: What interests me about skin-inspired nail art is the fact that skin is something that covers our entire body and we see it every day without even thinking about its existence. However, when an artist intentionally uses a skin motif in the beauty or fashion industry, it can provoke strong reactions and make some people uncomfortable. Presented in a different context, we seem to forget that we have skin everywhere at every moment of our lives. I also think that in most situations, we do nail art or wear clothes to cover our skin, so our brains may be confused when we see it on our nails or clothing. It has a disorienting effect and challenges our expectations of the design.
When did you first experiment with the second skin and what was the inspiration for it?
Anna Osmekhina: We started our exploration of second skin mesh and full body suits in 2013. Our main inspiration has always been tattoos – we chose a design, decided on the placement and the colors used. It is a unique and intimate process. It expresses a person’s personal experiences. We wanted to experiment with how this concept of tattooing could be translated into fashion and create a form of expression that is both personal and artistic. Accepting and celebrating our bodies in their natural state has always been a core inspiration for us.
Natasha Zinko: My Fall/Winter 2023 ‘MONSTER’ collection was about how the right piece of clothing can make you feel stronger, more confident and bring out your inner monster. For me, the exaggerated muscle prints expressed this idea perfectly; how clothing can enhance our mood and attitude. In my Fall/Winter 2024 ‘SPACE RACE’ collection, I explored space-age futurism with sleek retro silhouettes and classy pastel colors. The footprint-embossed boots offered a way to contrast and ground the modernist glamour; they were reminiscent of the animalistic nakedness we have moved so far away from.
Youwei Zhu: All my concept designs are created using 3D tools, so I’m constantly learning as I create. I usually start with the shape design, which is related to biology and the human body. During the creation process, I look at a large number of biological images, human bones, and other materials. I adapt the designs to the biological criteria so that they seem reasonable but real. This process is usually the most complex and time-consuming. After all the previous work is done, I “skin” these concepts, which is my favorite step. For a moment, it feels like they are really coming to life.
Where do you see Second Skin going next in your particular design process and what are you looking forward to experimenting with next?
Anna Osmekhina: We started as a conceptual collaborative project with a focus on innovative designs. Tattoos remain an important source of inspiration for us. We want to continue experimenting with beautiful forms and expressions of the body through art. Our goal is to work with artists worldwide to find the most striking and authentic ways to showcase the body.
Natasha Zinko: For the past six months, I’ve been experimenting with 3D printed organic shapes, exaggerating body parts like breasts and spines to create two performance looks for Doja Cat. I’m most excited to evolve previous graphic prints by incorporating dramatic volumes to see how I can transform the human body into something more alien.
Youwei Zhu: I have a lot of ideas about skin. I will focus not only on skin, but also on flesh, blood, organic matter, bones and all things that are closely related to life. To be honest, I don’t have any particular expectations. I like to focus on the moment. Sometimes too high expectations affect the rhythm of my creation.
